|
Some pictures may follow from phones etc, but they could only tell part of the story and therefore im writing an account of the 17th of Feb. This was Top roping "Overhanging wall" On the Friday evening Steve had noted that the weather looked poor and may lead to us calling it off. Of course this is the sensible route to follow, but at last check it all looked like it was going to be clear on the day. We agreed to climb at Causey again given the damp conditions, as I made my way up to the pub. The morning broke and all was well, I collected Steve and off we went. We set the ropes up, using some Lino to protect over the rocks. "Well safe" I thought to myself knowing Steve was quietly impressed with my top roping invention. We hung the rope, packed up and made our way down the side, which is a bit of a scramble, to the bottom of the crag. As I was half way down I heard a scuffling and a sliding, I looked behind me and Steve was on his arse. Like an out of control pit tub, hurtling through an old mine, Steve cut his own groove through to the bottom. "Are you ok?" I asked pissing myself inside, but given the fact this prostrate buffoon is going to belay me, I kept a sympathetic tone. "Not really" he replied stripping his shirt off. A change of clothes, and the excitement of doing this new route kept him going, although in fairness he looked like the worlds most furious wanker had taken a cheese grater to his chest. (Incidental quote "that cheese grater was a shit read" - Steve Wonder on realising what his Christmas present really was) I tied in and Steve laughed it off stating Mya (my 5 year old girl) has managed that scramble - and we gallantly named the route after her. I went up "Overhanging wall" but only to find that it was at the very least--a little damp and had to re route a little on the second climb. "I cant do nowt with this wet crack" - I exclaimed and almost broke my belayer, oh dear. It was out of condition and bold to say the least, loosing my foot in a hole didn't impress at all. However I managed to shuffle up wedging myself up the green wall crack until I found a seat. I took a rest and it may have been little over 5 degrees, but I was sweating like Jade Goody in Bollywood. Pleased with my ascent, and being the quiet country type, I beat my chest and shouted "Eye of the tiger" this had worked well for Stu at the wall. And with that I was off further up towards the top, in full knowledge that I would have to traverse left and out of the crack. I felt like I was running out of rope, as if I was really near the top and the short length pulls you to the middle. I knew this wasn't the case and when I looked I had misjudged and climbed above the traverse. At this point I made an error I will never forget. I committed to the next move and this tucked the rope beneath me and under a rock that overhung the entire crag. I had created a belay in its self, regardless of how much slack Steve gave me, my end was tight and I was unable to climb down. So the so called "Top rope" was now pulling me down under the rock. I was now thinking logically and how I was going to take the fall. "Physics Mark remember that? Aye the teacher that was always pished and the hot….no think |
|
Think! Pendulums, every swing after the first will be lower" but that didn't help, my head is a lot higher than the anchor point at my waist! In effect I was going for short, high velocity swing under the rocks below me. I held on. The other option was to climb out of it and traverse the rock, but this had nothing beneath it and a fall from hear was the same consequence. Adrenalin kicked in any I wasn't going to hold much longer. "Talk to me Steve" I said, realising the desperation of content and tone of the sentence as it left my lips. "Go on you can make it" - Encouraged Steve I went for it. Swinging my left foot round I took the hold easily on the arms, the foot landed on a ledge that had been blind to me. I edged left, and beyond the overhanging rock, finding a safe place. Me and the rope were back on the same side, in more ways than one. I made a few more moves, and came down as soon as the anchor was in sight. Elation. As I came down I shook my hands out with no care or real purpose, within an instant I was blind in one eye. Now this sounds unreal but in the moment I realised I had flicked bird shit in my eye, I didn't care. A quick eyewash and We switched around and Steve bravely took his turn, being mindful not to get the rope out of position. Now to cut a long story short - he did and was in a similar situation. "It's the fact the rope is more than horizontal" Steve explained the terror. Unlike myself he was not yet committed and could get back down. "I cant really advise mate, you can traverse out, but its shitorfying" I just didn't want to force the issue nor put him off. He went for it and eased around the face of the overhanging rock. Steve looked up, and stated he was going to "Top out" over he went above the anchor and onto the roof. A break in the sun was called for, this was the nice bit. The actual climb had been hard but not beyond us, the exposure and rope situation was what we had to learn from. We discussed it over a pie (Climbing fuel for me) and laughed the whole experience off. Charlie and Dave arrived at that moment, and asked what was so funny etc. "Steve, talk to me!" Quoted Steve. |